One hundred years ago this month, Grace Kingsley had thoughts on the latest trend in movies:
Costume pictures! Ugh, how we used to shy at the words! Because they conjured up to our minds only a bunch of puppets walking through their roles dressed in funny clothes, and of extra soldiers fighting battles over which we knew not what and didn’t care when we found out. And the producers used to shy, too, at the words “costume pictures,” but principally because the accent was on cost!
She pointed out that even Griffith’s Intolerance (1916) didn’t inspire American directors to make good historical dramas. However, then “the Germans brought us Passion and Deception and proved that little old kings and queens were only human beings after all. Ever since which time, period pictures have had a vogue.”
Kingsley was right: in 1922-23 there were more historical dramas being made in Hollywood, but it wasn’t because filmmakers suddenly realized royalty are people, it was because they were making money. As Exhibitors’ Herald reported in an article called “Costume Pictures Prosper” in November 1922, “the big pictures of the moment were Robin Hood, The Eternal Flame, When Knighthood was in Flower and Under Two Flags.” Film critic Robert Sherwood agreed with Kingsley about the movie that inspired the revival, but he was happy to mention it was the ticket sales, not necessarily the filmmaking:
Before Passion was imported to this country, there was a belief current among exhibitors that the public would never stand for any costume picture—no matter how romantic or spectacular or authentic they might be. This theory was exploded with a resounding bang, and almost every producer in Hollywood turned back into the pages of romance for movie material.
So Kingsley took herself to the set of one now-forgotten film that was part of the trend, A Lady of Quality. It was based on a Frances Hodgson Burnett novel set in Queen Anne’s time. She spoke to its director, Hobart Henley, and as was usual in the publicity for historical dramas, he emphasized how much everything cost. He told her there was “almost unlimited expense account” for the film, and the costumes for the extra women alone cost $11,000. A few days later, Kingsley also made a case for the spectacle that the movie would deliver, reporting:
500 extras will tomorrow fall under the direction of Hobart Henley, when he makes the scenes showing Queen Anne, played by Aileen Manning, reviewing the return of the Duke of Marlborough and his troops from the battle of Blenheim. This will be one of the most picturesque scenes of the feature.
Of course Hobart also mentioned the third important part of what they thought people wanted from historical dramas then: the authenticity of what went up on the screen. The director said he and the writers had spent four months going over “countless pages of articles, sketches, old wood cuts and historical data.” Hobart covered all the bases. I’ve never quite understood why these three things would make people want to buy a ticket, but it must have worked, because that’s how they always did it.
The plot of A Lady of Quality is shockingly melodramatic, if you only know France Hodgson Burnett’s work from her children’s books The Secret Garden and The Little Princess. The adaptation was faithful to the novel. Clorinda Wildairs (Virginia Valli) is raised as a boy (her father wanted a son), but when she meets Sir John Oxen (Earle Foxe) she falls in love and becomes the lady of quality of the title. Alas, he is a cad, he threatens to blackmail her, they have a fight and she (accidentally) kills him. But she successfully hides the body and ends up with worthwhile suitor (Milton Sills). Hooray? That little princess Sara Crewe didn’t off anybody, no matter how rotten her schoolmates were. Smart Bitches, Trashy Books ran a funny review of the novel in 2016.
The film came out in early 1924, and the reviews were pretty good. Film Daily called it “easily one of the most interesting costume dramas seen recently,” while Mary Kelly in Moving Picture World said it was “a production of great beauty.” Exhibitors’ Herald thought Hobart made a “very satisfactory job of it” and called the murder an “unusual twist to the tale [that] serves to stimulate interest in the picture’s unfolding.” I bet it did!
It had a star-studded premier at the Mission Theater February 4th in Los Angeles on February 4th, and Kingsley’s boss Edwin Schallert attended. He agreed with the trade paper critics:
England, merrie old England, reproduced in A Lady of Quality, with beauty evident at every turn of the reel in photography, settings, and costumes, will fascinate the beholders of the photoplay. This feature indeed is one of the surprises of the season pictorially, and though the fabric of drama may not be securely bound together, what it has to offer of charm and naturalness in the acting of the principals is in a way quite unforgettable.
A Lady of Quality is a lost film. It’s staggering how much work and money and time and trouble went into movies that have disappeared.
The fad for historical dramas did die down fairly soon, and it’s not a surprise why: just as Kingsley said, producers didn’t want to pay for them. In January 1924 Film Daily quoted producer Joseph Schenk about plans for the 1924-5 season: “there will be but few costume pictures made on the Coast during the coming year. No other phase of production was as costly as costume pictures.” He would know, having just produced Ashes of Vengeance with Norma Talmadge, The Dangerous Maid with Constance Talmadge, and Our Hospitality with Buster Keaton.
However, costume dramas are still popular. As James Quirk in Photoplay pointed out in October 1924: “The muezzins of Hollywood have been crying death to the costume picture. They contend that the box office scrolls reveal that the public is tired of it. The truth is that the public is tired of bad costume pictures…What has actually happened is, not that the costume has given the picture a bad name, but that picture has given the costume a bad name.” He pointed out that Monsieur Beaucaire was selling lots of tickets.
Whether they’re called historical dramas, heritage films or frock flicks, they have continued to go in and out of fashion, and just as Kingsley did, film writers can always speculate on their popularity. For example, Kat Escher wrote one for Smithsonian Magazine to celebrate Gone with the Wind’s anniversary.
“Adapted Book Makes Fine Play,” Exhibitors’ Herald, December 8, 1923, p. 54.
“Costume Pictures Prosper,” Exhibitors’ Herald, November 4, 1922, p. 52.
Mary Kelly, “A Lady of Quality,” Moving Picture World, December 23, 1923, p. 704.
“A Lady of Quality,” Film Daily, December 16, 1923, p. 10.
“Plans,” Film Daily, January 21, 1924, p.1.
Edwin Schallert, “Merrie Old England,” Los Angeles Times, February 5, 1924.
Robert E. Sherwood, The Best Moving Pictures of 1922-23, Boston: Small, Maynard & Company, 1923, p. xviii
“Stars to Attend Mission Opening,” Los Angeles Times, February 4, 1924.